41110 Sandalwood Cir Ste. 103
Murrieta, CA 92562

P: 760-580-3370
We’re open Monday – Friday, 8 a.m. – 5:30 p.m. PST

Frequently Asked Questions

Please read our FAQ before sending us a message.

RCC offers many different types of finishes available, starting with standard broom natural grey, to pattern and texture stamping, also exposed aggregate finishes, from light exposed( just showing sand), to medium and heavy exposed looks,(showing the course aggregate rock).

Integral color: Concrete can be colored integrally; color is added to the mix at the ready mix supply factory during the mixing process, and then delivered to the job site. Thus providing color throughout the total thickness of the slab. This is a preferred coloring method; if the slab surface is chipped or cracked it would be less noticeable.

Dust on color: With this method, powder is broadcast over the surface of the slab, then trowled, providing a surface color that is approx. 1/16th -1/8th in. thick. In this case, if the slab is chipped or cracked, it is highly visible and unsightly, being that the natural grey concrete below the thin layers of surface color will now be exposed.

Stains and dye colors: Stains and dye can be sprayed, sponged, or broomed on hardened concrete surfaces to create rich earth tone colors resembling natural stones, rocks, marble and even wood, thus providing a completely custom look to any concrete surface. Multiple colors can be used in a stacking method to create variations distinct to your own project. All stains are custom mixed and blended for each project and applied in multiple stages to achieve a unique and realistic look. Upon completion of all color stain projects, we will specifically package the colors that were used on your project for you to keep. If damages ever occur, or you find your concrete is chipped or cracked, simply take a clean rag, put some stain on it and blot in on the chip or crack and watch is virtually disappear.

It is highly unlikely our product will crack, but that's not to say hairline cracks will not occur. Like any solid surface, whether granite, marble, or limestone there can always be a chance of cracking. There is no 100% guarantee our products will not crack as the earth moves, but we do guarantee our product to maintain structural integrity if a hairline crack does occur.

Depending upon weather conditions can greatly determine the curing time for projects. Concrete cures quickly for about 28 days, then very slowly thereafter for years. In most cases you can walk on it after 24 hours and drive on it after 7 -10 days. Curing of concrete is the final step of the construction process, and one of the most important. Unfortunately, it is also one of the most neglected. Keeping the surface moist to assure greatest hydration of cement and highest potential strength is easily done through spray membranes or other readily available products and procedures. In extreme cases, failure to cure concrete can result in reductions of strength up to 50%.

One of our commonly asked questions is about white spots appearing on the concrete some time later. Here's some of the most common causes and solutions:


A white bloom or powdery deposit of crystalline material that sometimes appears on the surface of concrete or masonry is called efflorescence. It consists of crystalline salts brought from the interior of the concrete by water, and deposited on the surface by the evaporation of the water. When water moves through cracks and porosity in the concrete, it brings to the surface the soluble calcium hydroxide that result from the reaction between cement and water. After evaporation of the water, the calcium hydroxide remaining on the surface reacts with carbon dioxide in the air, forming calcium carbonate, the familiar white crystalline deposit. Efflorescence can be removed by washing the concrete with water and vinegar in most cases.


Southern California water has a high mineral content. When this water is deposited on to sealed concrete surfaces, ie; pool water splashed out, irrigation water from sprinklers, ect... it will evaporate leaving a white residue. Similar to water spotting left on a car after washing with out proper drying. This residue is easily wiped away with a Lime-away solution, but the only permanent solution is a water softener or the removal of the water source onto the treated surface.


One common cause of sealer problems is moisture retention in the surfaces to be sealed. In porous materials, such as common brick, Mexican tiles, concrete, ect... There is room for tremendous quantities of water, in many cases; this moisture cannot be seen on the surface. Causes of moisture problems will vary: a high water table, hydrostatic pressure from underground water sources, run off from heavy landscape watering in adjacent areas. We recommend that landscape irrigation water be controlled to prevent water from standing and drying on sealed surfaces and over watering of landscaped areas. Over watered soils can cause problems with efflorescence, thus breaking down sealer prematurely.

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